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The train for Granada departs from Sevilla's Santa Justa station and climbs up into the Sierra via Marchena, Osuna and Antequera. It does not hurry but neither does it dawdle and it is modern, clean and comfortably air-conditioned. As a point of interest my Renfe ticket tells me that the return fare for an adult booking the day prior to the journey in the summer of 2006 was €36.

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The journey lasts, if memory serves, three and a half hours. It ended with four of us standing in a queue outside Granada station waiting for any taxi that might care to turn up. Facing a choice between standing and boiling and moving and boiling we opted for moving and boiling: accordingly, as the buses that appeared were all heading in the wrong direction, we walked across Granada through extensive road-works to Acera del Darro where we duly found the Hotel Carmen. (There would appear to be no connection between the hotel and the sultry cigarette-girl of Sevilla, and in Granada carmen seems to denote a private villa together with its garden.)

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Here, our friends had a breathtaking view of the Sierra Nevada from their room, and the pavement bars opposite the hotel were first rate. So far - save for the dust from the road-works - so good.

Then we found more bars, including one from which, looking uphill, we had sight of a flag and the top of a fortification, no more than that - the highest part of the Alhambra, the Torre de la Vela or Watch Tower. A clue to what the Alhambra represents is to be found in the fact that, from so near, nothing else of it can be seen.