| Finistere tourist information
Finistere, France's most Northwest tip, is dominated
by miles of rugged coastline, impressive towering cliffs, coves and tiny
ports. Some of the more popular summer spots are the Crozon Peninsula
and the Pointe de Raz. The infamous island of Ushant, the Ile d’Ouessant,
lies out to the west and now forms part of the Armorique nature reserve.
The boat trip takes approximately one hour, and once there, you can get
around by bike or minibus. Solitude is never far away in the northern
stretches beyond Brest or some of the lesser known fishing villages such
as Le Conquet. The Parc Regional D’Armorique occupies much of central
Finistere. Not far is Quimper and Pays Bigouden where crepes, cider, lace
bonnets & Celtic song & dance is still part of everyday life.
Crozon is a superb base for exploring the peninsula
of the same name - the views of the Atlantic from the high cliffs are
dramatic. From Pointe des Espagnols in the north, Brest harbour can be
seen. The church in the town has a fine wooden altarpiece consisting of
29 panels dating from the beginning of the 17th century.
Brest was a victim of its own success. A vast, natural
harbour, its chief role is as an important naval base and it took a terrible
pounding during the last war. The rebuilt city is not very attractive
but some parts of old Brest still remain, such as the squares and streets
overlooking the harbour, the 15th century castle and La Place Guérin,
the haunt of local artists and poets and a welcoming place to eat in the
evening. The new Océanopolis is well worth a visit – it is
now more of a marine theme park than an aquarium. Markets are held all
over the town during the week.
Le Conquet is a tiny fishing port which has retained
its original charm and has good beaches such as Porzliogan and Blancs
Sablons. The numerous lighthouses along the coast and on the island of
Ouessant give a spectacular display at night.
Audierne is an active fishing port and provides good
local seafood. The beaches are excellent with long stretches of fine sand
and there are boat trips across to the Ile de Sein. This tiny island of
bare trees and shrubs has only about 500 inhabitants mostly reliant on
fishing. In 1940, 150 men left the island for London to join the Free
French Forces under De Gaulle. This led to the island being awarded the
Croix de la Libération. Stretching along the banks of the river
Odet, Quimper is the ancient capital of la Cornouaille, the name given
to this region by the ancient Celts who fled here from Cornwall. There
are plenty of references to King Arthur and his knights too, as much part
of folklore here as in Britain.
Around the cathedral in Quimper, with its distinctive
twin spires, there is plenty to see. Work commenced on the Cathedral in
1239 and should not be missed. Next door is the Breton Museum, recently
renovated, and the Musée des Beaux Arts is opposite. Quimper’s
particular fame is its pottery: the H.B. Henriot workshops, now run by
an American couple, can be visited (except at weekends) and there is,
of course, a shop. Behind the workshops is the pottery museum, showing
three and a half centuries of the art.
One of France’s largest fishing ports, Concarneau
is also a popular resort. The view of the medieval walled town is one
of the most photographed in Brittany and the tourist crowds flock in every
summer. Vauban improved the fortifications against pirates and invaders,
and despite the souvenir shops and bars, the town still gives a feeling
of entering a time warp. The town has been a haven for artists led by
the American Robert Wylie in the 1860s, spilling over into nearby Pont
Aven where Gauguin set up his studio.
The fishing museum within the walls tells the history
of the town and its importance as a fish-canning centre. Le Marinarium,
open from April to September, exhibits the local flora and fauna. The
walk around the bay and ramparts is the best way to see the town.
The early morning fish auction, la criée, is
a great experience even if the daily business of selling the fish remains
a mystery. In mid-August, the fishermen’s festival, La Fête
des Filets Bleus, is one of the liveliest in Brittany with traditional
music. There are boat trips out to the Iles des Glénan, a small
archipelago, home to a famous sailing school and seabird sanctuaries.
Midway between Quimper and Lorient, Quimperlé
is an attractive small town with pretty medieval streets and churches.
Guided tours are available from the tourist office and take about two
hours. Music festivals and concerts take place in July and August. The
Fête de la Laïta in mid-August is a family occasion with canoe
“battles” and 2CV races.
On the river Aulne, lies Châteaulin which attracts
visitors wanting to explore the Crozon peninsula, the Armorique regional
park and Menez Hom, a mountain in Breton terms. Probaby an extinct volcano,
this “mountain” has panoramic views over the Brest Roads right
up to the Pointe du Van and is a favourite peak for hang-gliders. There
is plenty of car parking on the summit.
Carhaix Plouguer lies on the crossroads of several old
Roman roads and remains one of the strongholds of Breton traditions –
there is a language and culture centre in the town. The town’s most
famous son, La Tour d’Auvergne, a soldier in Napoléon’s
Grande Armée, was a respected scholar and wrote on the origins
and grammar of Celtic languages, Breton in particular. His life is celebrated
in the town on the last Sunday in June and his statue stands in the main
square.
Morlaix, instantly recognisable by the towering, 19th
century viaduct that spans the valley where the town lies is an estuary
port. Morlaix prospered from piracy - or privateering, depending on whose
side you were on – and was more notorious than St Malo.
Beer drinkers can quench their thirsts at the Brasserie
des Deux Rivières where they make Coreff – a highly fermented
bitter, very different to the usual French lager-style brew. The Festival
les Arts dans la Rue takes place every Wednesday evening in the town centre
from mid-July to mid-August with music, dancing and local gastronomy on
the menu.
The port of Roscoff has seen quite a few celebrities
in its time. Mary, Queen of Scots, arrived at the age of six to be engaged
to the Dauphin; Bonnie Prince Charlie fled here after Culloden and, in
1828, Henri Olivier left for England with his strings of onions.
The seaside resort today has a fine waterfront and a
good choice of beaches, the best being the sandy one at Laber. Around
the church of Notre Dame de Croatz Batz, there are some fine old houses
– including the one where Mary Stuart stayed. The botanical garden,
with some lovely views over the Bay of Morlaix, is a short drive south
of the town. Alternatively, a 15 minute boat ride will take you to the
charming Ile de Batz, with its exotic gardens and impressive lighthouse.
Cornouaille is an extremely popular area with tourists
not least because of its cultural identity, its historical sites, its
coastline which is highly suitable for water sports, and its rich historical
and artistic heritage. It also owes its reputation to the many festivals
and shows which animate towns especially during the summer, in particular
the old sailing ships at Douarnenez, the Festival de Cornouaille at Quimper,
the Fête des Brodeuses at Pont L'Abbé, the Fête des
Filets Bleus at Concarneau.
There is always plenty to see and do in Finistere
Ile d'Quessant - explore this rugged but beautiful island
and discover the seals and birds. The two museums will shed light on the
island's turbulent history.
Faience pottery in Quimper - visit the faience factory
in Quimper, which has been producing hand-painted pottery since 1690.
The festival of Cornouaille in late July is not to be missed.
Boat Trips - Port du Rosmeur is an authentic, picturesque
port offering boat trips, cafes, seafood restaurants and a lively criée
or fish market. >> Parc Naturel d'Armorique - walk, ride or cycle
around this protected national park - a mixture of farmland, heaths &
ancient oak forests.
Walk through the Bois d'Amour, 1 to 1 1/2 hours, about
4 miles. Walk along the footbridges that make up the Xavier Grall walk,
then go to the left (follow the wooden sign) to walk up to the Bois d'Amour
to get to footpath that runs under the viaduct.
This is where the walk along the banks of the Aven begins - on the wooded
slopes in the Bois d'Amour. The walk ends with the alley of chestnut trees
that leads you back to Pont-Aven. The walk can be made longer if you go
by the Trémalo chapel. The Bois d'Amour is a sacred place filled
with symbols; it was a gathering spot for the painters. This is where
Paul Sérusier painted "Le Talisman" (1888) and Emile
Bernard painted "Madeleine in the Bois d'Amour" (1888).
"This Bois d'Amour where all the painters in the
Pont-Aven artists' colony liked to come, seduced by the calmness, the
beauty of the big venerable trees, the richness of the reflections constantly
disturbed by the current of the river as it threw itself against the large
granite rocks, and by the clouds that changed the light as the wind blew..."
D. DELOUCHE, Ar Men,1986
"Maurice Denis et la leçon de Pont-Aven"
Xavier Grall Walk, starting from rue Emile Bernard.
This footpath runs beside the Aven, crosses the canal
at the Moulin Poulhouars, which is no longer standing. The garden, built
on an islet extended by a spillway, determines how the water is distributed
to the different mills. The mill races are still in place. Old wash houses
and stone stairs accessing the river can be seen all along the trail.
A granite stele with a bronze medallion pays homage
to Xavier GRALL (1930 - 1981), a poet, journalist and writer from northern
Finistère and the author of several texts about Brittany, including
a compilation called "Rires et pleurs de l'Aven" (Laughter and
Tears of the River Aven). Grall was very attached to his native land.
He lived in Botzulan, a small hamlet near Pont-Aven. Before reaching the
rue du Général de Gaulle, take a look at Poche-Menu, a chaos
in the river (large rocks that are the result of erosion of granite stones).
Square Théodore BOTREL
A statue of Botrel was erected on this square
in 1932 to pay homage to the playwright who created the first traditional
festival in Brittany in 1905. Each year, on the first Sunday in August,
the festival "renews its lucky days," helping Botrel's work
in Pont-Aven live on. Botrel had two goals in mind when he created this
festival: "glorify Brittany through her costumes, her songs and her
dances, her ancestral customs" and "relieve the misery"
by redistributing the positive effects of a festival to the land's poor.
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